Most times people would advise you to leave the past behind. But in this case when it comes to keeping family traditions alive, it is good to bring the past into present day. One thing I have learned and know, is there are many of us out there in search of those wonderful recipes and traditions that remind us of home. During my few years of blogging for Hispanic Kitchen, I am often asked for recipes our Mexican mothers and grandmothers prepared. And often, many of those times, my version of my family’s recipe ends up being almost exactly what they were looking for. Every Mexican family has their own version of tamales, rice, frijoles charros, but the basics are usually the same. And I, just like many of them, wish I would have asked more questions about certain family recipes when I had my parents with me. In many cases, I go from memory, from those times I would help my Mom in the kitchen. For today’s blog post, I was inspired by the season and all it’s rich fall colors. During the fall season when pumpkins are bountiful, I begin my own little tradition of preparing relleno de calabaza for my holiday empanadas. Before the pumpkin becomes a filling for my empanadas, I take a few servings out for Calabaza en Tacha. Served with a warm pilocillo syrup with hints of cinnamon, anise and clove. In the past, I have used the canned pumpkin puree to prepare this, but the results were not quite as good. Also included in this post is my best memory on how my family prepared Conserva de Naranja or candied orange peels in syrup. I really don’t know why it’s so important for me to share these recipes. I think, in a way, by doing this the memory of my parents and my abuelita are very much alive, standing right there next to me as I prepare these recipes in my own kitchen. The traditions are passed down and will carry on for generations to come.
Before the calabaza is further cooked down for relleno de calabaza, it is traditionally served with the piloncillo syrup that is infused with flavors of cinnamon, star anise and clove. It is often served with cream or milk over the top. Calabaza en Tacha
Calabaza en Tacha
Ingredients
2 medium pumpkins, washed, seeds cleaned out (6 pounds all together)
* Cut the pumpkin down into 3X3 inch pieces, leaving the skins on.
4 pounds piloncillo sugar or 4 cups packed, dark brown sugar
6 cups water, plus more when needed to cover pumpkin
5 cinnamon sticks (3 inches in size)
5 star anise
6 whole cloves
Zest and juice from 2 oranges
Directions
1. In a large stock pot, add the 6 cups of water, piloncillo, cinnamon, anise and cloves, zest and juice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook just until sugar dissolves. Add all of the pumpkin into the stock pot. Cover and continue cooking at a simmer for a good hour or until pumpkin is soft and you have a thick syrup. The key is to keep the pot covered as best you can so the water does not evaporate quickly. Stir gently when you can, trying not to break up the pumpkin pieces.
2. If serving Calabaza en Tacha, you would serve one or two pieces in a shallow bowl. Ladle some of the syrup over the top and add cream or milk before serving. Yields 10 to 12 servings.
Relleno de Calabaza ~Pumpkin Filling
Ingredients
5 pounds cooked pumpkin, smashed(use recipe above to cook fresh pumpkin)
2 cups syrup from cooking pumpkin
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
Pinch of salt
1. Remove the skin/rind from cooked pumpkin. Transfer to a large, heavy pot and smash using a potato masher or process in food processor. Add 2 cups of syrup from cooking Calabaza en Tacha. Add the cinnamon, pumpkin pie spice and pinch of salt. Stir well to combine.
2. Cook at a low simmer for 1 1/2 hours or until most of the liquid is absorbed. It should be thick enough that your wooden spoon will stand straight up without falling or leaning. Stir often!!! Yields about 6 cups. Cool completely before using for filling. Store in an airtight container for a few days or freeze flat in freezer bags until ready to use.
September 28, 2016- Having recently lost my beloved Tia Miné just 2 months ago, this post has even more meaning than ever! It was quite sudden and I was never able to express to her how much it meant to me to be able to spend all that time with her on my last trip to Monterrey, Mexico. God has gained a very special angel and she has been reuinited with my Mom and all of la familia that have gone before us. QEPD.
Conserva de Naranja~ Candied Orange Peels
Of course, I had to adjust the recipe to what was available to me and sour oranges are not so I used regular navel oranges. I am pretty happy with the results. Taste pretty much the way I remember. Next time I may add a little more piloncillo to make more syrup for this one batch. Every year during the holidays, we would visit my familia in Monterrey, Mexico. And every time, my abuelita Sarita would give us that special re-purposed glass jar from the Nescafe coffee filled with homemade Conserva de Naranja. There were eight of us kids, so you know it was an extra special treat when we would get back home to California. I have the best memories….On my return trip to Monterrey in 2011, my Tia Minerva prepared a special batch of conserva after a day trip to the family ranch where there are miles of sour orange orchards. It was one of the most beautiful days I spent there. Not even the rain and cold could ruin that day. I watch my tia prepare everything, but never wrote down anything! Good thing the recipe required few ingredients and I have a pretty good memory. This is my best recollection of the recipe.
Conserva de Naranja
Ingredients
5 large navel oranges
Salt
3/4 cup water
2 pounds piloncillo
2 large cinnamon sticks
2-4 whole cloves
1 whole star anise
Directions
1. Zest the oranges. Store zest in freezer to use for another recipe. Score the oranges into quarters. Carefully peel, trying not to tear and keep pieces intact.
2. Add the orange peels to a small baking dish with lid or a storage container. Cover with 4 cups of water. Add 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover and let soak for 3 days.
3. Next day, drain and rinse the orange peels. In a 5 quart pot, orange peels to the to the pot. On top of the peels, add the star anise, cloves, cinnamon sticks and then the piloncillo on top. Pour in about 3/4 cup of water. Cover pot and bring to a boil. Reduce to low, keeping pot covered with lid, and continue cooking on low for 2 hours. If it looks like it will run out of water, add little more and continue cooking. Stir every now and then and use spoon to break down the piloncillo. The orange peels should become darker as they absorb the piloncillo syrup. Cool on stove top and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Yields 1/2 quart.
What kind of pumpkin do you use
Gloria, I just use fresh pumpkin like the ones they sell for Halloween. They are delicious!
I made the calabaza but the syrup did not get as thick as I wanted it. This is the first time I’ve done it on stove top and used so much water. We usually bake ours in the oven with about have the amount of water you used. All in all the flavor was great just disappointed that the syrup was too thin. Will make empanadas
Thanks for the feedback Debra. I honestly think I need to add more piloncillo for that amount of water. My abuelita and tia used to prepare theres in the pressure cooker. I may try using more piloncillo next time. Thanks,
My Nana was from Aconchi, SOnora, a little mountain village. IT is still remote. Sixty miles from Hermosillo. SHe came to CAlifornia when she was sixteen. My mother was born in East LA. SO was I . SO was my dad. the most authentic foods that I can make camd from my Nana who taught my mama. Tamales with a black olive; chile blend dry New MExico for heat/Dry California for flavor. That is what my mama would say. THe meat: a mix of pork and beef. I can also make capirotada. I enjoyed reading your history blog. My Nana died when I was almost seven so I don’t have alot of memories of her, only what my mama shared with me My mama died when she was 45 and I was 25. ALot was learned and cherished to me in those short twenty five years. I did get to visit the village where my Nana was born eleven years after my mama died. My Nana’s best friend’s daughters welcomed us and made us tamales de venado. It was an amazing experience. I do know how to make flour tortillas the ‘gorditas’ but there in Aconchi, the ladies showed me the other kind of flour tortillas that are huge in diameter and made like a pizza dough, no rolling pin but with the art of the hands and arms to stretch it out.
Irene, those are some beautiful memories to be cherished for sure. I have many cherished memories with my mom, abuelita and tias, but the ones I remember the ,most are the food related memories. Thank you for sharing some of yours with me.